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One-dimensional wave spectrum analysis of wind waves off Cape Town

Wind waves in the vicinity of Cape Town, South Africa, were measured by means of an N.I.O. (England) ship-borne wave recorder, in water depths varying from 12 - 140 metres. One dimensional frequency spectra were computed from the records, by power spectrum analysis, based on the method of Blackman a...

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Main Author: Van Ieperen, Maarten Pieter
Other Authors: Harris, T F W
Format: Thesis
Language:English
Published: Department of Oceanography 2016
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access_status_str Open Access
author Van Ieperen, Maarten Pieter
author2 Harris, T F W
author_browse Harris, T F W
Van Ieperen, Maarten Pieter
author_facet Harris, T F W
Van Ieperen, Maarten Pieter
author_sort Van Ieperen, Maarten Pieter
collection Thesis
description Wind waves in the vicinity of Cape Town, South Africa, were measured by means of an N.I.O. (England) ship-borne wave recorder, in water depths varying from 12 - 140 metres. One dimensional frequency spectra were computed from the records, by power spectrum analysis, based on the method of Blackman and Tukey, using an I.B.M. 1130 Computer. Assumptions of normality and stationarity were tested. The Gaussian assumption of the waves was found to be acceptable for the waters off Cape Town. At the 5% critical level, using the chi-square test, 3 out of 23 records tested were found to be non-Gaussian. No significant difference between the Gaussian properties of the deep and the shallow stations was found. Tests for stationarity applied to 3 selected records showed 1 record as clearly non-stationary. However, this recording was obtained under fluctuating wind conditions. Comparison of the total variances of the power spectra obtained in shoaling water showed a systematic decrease of variance with depth. Normalised spectra did not show a systematic selective attenuation of the variances with frequency. Factors which might have caused the systematic reduction of the total variances with depth have been examined. The bottom friction factor for this coast was estimated. The mean value of the bottom friction is 0.22. This is higher than found by other workers.
format Thesis
id oai:open.uct.ac.za:11427/18125
institution University of Cape Town (South Africa)
language eng
last_indexed 2026-06-10T12:33:25.185Z
license_str Not specified — see source repository
provenance_str_mv Harvested via OAI-PMH from UCTD — University of Cape Town Open Access Repository
publishDate 2016
publishDateRange 2016
publishDateSort 2016
publisher Department of Oceanography
publisherStr Department of Oceanography
record_format dspace
source_str UCTD — University of Cape Town Open Access Repository
spelling oai:open.uct.ac.za:11427/18125 One-dimensional wave spectrum analysis of wind waves off Cape Town Van Ieperen, Maarten Pieter Harris, T F W Oceanography Wind waves in the vicinity of Cape Town, South Africa, were measured by means of an N.I.O. (England) ship-borne wave recorder, in water depths varying from 12 - 140 metres. One dimensional frequency spectra were computed from the records, by power spectrum analysis, based on the method of Blackman and Tukey, using an I.B.M. 1130 Computer. Assumptions of normality and stationarity were tested. The Gaussian assumption of the waves was found to be acceptable for the waters off Cape Town. At the 5% critical level, using the chi-square test, 3 out of 23 records tested were found to be non-Gaussian. No significant difference between the Gaussian properties of the deep and the shallow stations was found. Tests for stationarity applied to 3 selected records showed 1 record as clearly non-stationary. However, this recording was obtained under fluctuating wind conditions. Comparison of the total variances of the power spectra obtained in shoaling water showed a systematic decrease of variance with depth. Normalised spectra did not show a systematic selective attenuation of the variances with frequency. Factors which might have caused the systematic reduction of the total variances with depth have been examined. The bottom friction factor for this coast was estimated. The mean value of the bottom friction is 0.22. This is higher than found by other workers. 2016-03-21T19:26:15Z 2016-03-21T19:26:15Z 1970 Master Thesis Masters MSc http://hdl.handle.net/11427/18125 eng application/pdf Department of Oceanography Faculty of Science University of Cape Town
spellingShingle Oceanography
Van Ieperen, Maarten Pieter
One-dimensional wave spectrum analysis of wind waves off Cape Town
thesis_degree_str Master's
title One-dimensional wave spectrum analysis of wind waves off Cape Town
title_full One-dimensional wave spectrum analysis of wind waves off Cape Town
title_fullStr One-dimensional wave spectrum analysis of wind waves off Cape Town
title_full_unstemmed One-dimensional wave spectrum analysis of wind waves off Cape Town
title_short One-dimensional wave spectrum analysis of wind waves off Cape Town
title_sort one dimensional wave spectrum analysis of wind waves off cape town
topic Oceanography
url http://hdl.handle.net/11427/18125
work_keys_str_mv AT vanieperenmaartenpieter onedimensionalwavespectrumanalysisofwindwavesoffcapetown