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The implications of lead firm sourcing strategies and value chain governance on suppliers and sector development: the case of the South African textile and apparel industry

This dissertation investigates the sourcing strategies and value chain governance of South African apparel retailers and their impact on the local textile and apparel manufacturing sector. Over the past three decades, value chain research has highlighted the crucial role of lead firms in coordinatin...

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Main Author: Mkhabela, Vuyiswa
Other Authors: Black, Anthony
Format: Thesis
Language:English
English
Published: School of Economics 2025
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access_status_str Open Access
author Mkhabela, Vuyiswa
author2 Black, Anthony
author_browse Black, Anthony
Mkhabela, Vuyiswa
author_facet Black, Anthony
Mkhabela, Vuyiswa
author_sort Mkhabela, Vuyiswa
collection Thesis
description This dissertation investigates the sourcing strategies and value chain governance of South African apparel retailers and their impact on the local textile and apparel manufacturing sector. Over the past three decades, value chain research has highlighted the crucial role of lead firms in coordinating production networks and shaping supplier relationships. However, little research has focused on the strategies of lead firms from the Global South, particularly in Africa's apparel industry. Through an integrated analysis of value chain governance, trade, and industrial policies, supplemented by case studies, this research examines the evolving sourcing strategies of South African retailers. Findings indicate that these strategies are influenced by strategic priorities, public value chain governance, global trends towards resilient supply chains, and supplier capabilities. Over the past 10-15 years, South African retailers have shifted from offshoring to nearshoring and reshoring, transitioning from transactional and captive governance to hierarchical and network-based models. The study demonstrates that hierarchical governance, marked by vertical integration, and network-based governance, characterized by partnerships, have distinct implications for supplier development and sectoral restructuring. This research contributes to the literature by providing insights into the sourcing strategies and value chain governance of lead firms in the Global South, highlighting the interaction between private sector practices and public policy in fostering industrial development.
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institution University of Cape Town (South Africa)
language English
eng
last_indexed 2026-06-10T12:34:25.395Z
license_str Not specified — see source repository
provenance_str_mv Harvested via OAI-PMH from UCTD — University of Cape Town Open Access Repository
publishDate 2025
publishDateRange 2025
publishDateSort 2025
publisher School of Economics
publisherStr School of Economics
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source_str UCTD — University of Cape Town Open Access Repository
spelling oai:open.uct.ac.za:11427/41746 The implications of lead firm sourcing strategies and value chain governance on suppliers and sector development: the case of the South African textile and apparel industry Mkhabela, Vuyiswa Black, Anthony Lepelle, Refilwe South African textile Apparel industry This dissertation investigates the sourcing strategies and value chain governance of South African apparel retailers and their impact on the local textile and apparel manufacturing sector. Over the past three decades, value chain research has highlighted the crucial role of lead firms in coordinating production networks and shaping supplier relationships. However, little research has focused on the strategies of lead firms from the Global South, particularly in Africa's apparel industry. Through an integrated analysis of value chain governance, trade, and industrial policies, supplemented by case studies, this research examines the evolving sourcing strategies of South African retailers. Findings indicate that these strategies are influenced by strategic priorities, public value chain governance, global trends towards resilient supply chains, and supplier capabilities. Over the past 10-15 years, South African retailers have shifted from offshoring to nearshoring and reshoring, transitioning from transactional and captive governance to hierarchical and network-based models. The study demonstrates that hierarchical governance, marked by vertical integration, and network-based governance, characterized by partnerships, have distinct implications for supplier development and sectoral restructuring. This research contributes to the literature by providing insights into the sourcing strategies and value chain governance of lead firms in the Global South, highlighting the interaction between private sector practices and public policy in fostering industrial development. 2025-09-10T10:55:21Z 2025-09-10T10:55:21Z 2025 2025-09-10T10:50:45Z Thesis / Dissertation Masters MCom http://hdl.handle.net/11427/41746 en eng application/pdf School of Economics Faculty of Commerce University of Cape Town
spellingShingle South African textile
Apparel industry
Mkhabela, Vuyiswa
The implications of lead firm sourcing strategies and value chain governance on suppliers and sector development: the case of the South African textile and apparel industry
thesis_degree_str Master's
title The implications of lead firm sourcing strategies and value chain governance on suppliers and sector development: the case of the South African textile and apparel industry
title_full The implications of lead firm sourcing strategies and value chain governance on suppliers and sector development: the case of the South African textile and apparel industry
title_fullStr The implications of lead firm sourcing strategies and value chain governance on suppliers and sector development: the case of the South African textile and apparel industry
title_full_unstemmed The implications of lead firm sourcing strategies and value chain governance on suppliers and sector development: the case of the South African textile and apparel industry
title_short The implications of lead firm sourcing strategies and value chain governance on suppliers and sector development: the case of the South African textile and apparel industry
title_sort implications of lead firm sourcing strategies and value chain governance on suppliers and sector development the case of the south african textile and apparel industry
topic South African textile
Apparel industry
url http://hdl.handle.net/11427/41746
work_keys_str_mv AT mkhabelavuyiswa theimplicationsofleadfirmsourcingstrategiesandvaluechaingovernanceonsuppliersandsectordevelopmentthecaseofthesouthafricantextileandapparelindustry
AT mkhabelavuyiswa implicationsofleadfirmsourcingstrategiesandvaluechaingovernanceonsuppliersandsectordevelopmentthecaseofthesouthafricantextileandapparelindustry