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Perceptions and experiences of skin lighteners in Cape Town

There are significant public health concerns related to the use and effects of skin lightening beauty products, the growth of which has been called a global epidemic. Research has demonstrated the sometimes-severe consequences associated with the use of skin lightening products, including poor self-...

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Main Author: Jacobs-Alfred, Meagan
Other Authors: Colvin, Christopher
Format: Thesis
Language:English
English
Published: Department of Public Health and Family Medicine 2026
Subjects:
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access_status_str Open Access
author Jacobs-Alfred, Meagan
author2 Colvin, Christopher
author_browse Colvin, Christopher
Jacobs-Alfred, Meagan
author_facet Colvin, Christopher
Jacobs-Alfred, Meagan
author_sort Jacobs-Alfred, Meagan
collection Thesis
description There are significant public health concerns related to the use and effects of skin lightening beauty products, the growth of which has been called a global epidemic. Research has demonstrated the sometimes-severe consequences associated with the use of skin lightening products, including poor self-esteem, permanent skin damage and even skin cancer. Many countries have regulations over skin lightening products, but it is challenging to properly manage the illicit market that nonetheless emerges. While most research has focused on the dermatological effects of skin lightening creams, little focus has been placed on the actual experiences of using skin lightening creams and the implications these have on public health. The goal of this study is to provide an account of the perspectives and experiences of service providers and skin lightening cream consumers in Cape Town. To gain insight into the daily consumption of skin lightening cosmetics, this study focused on beauty salons, African hairdressers, and stores belonging to the so-called "ethnic" trade associated with immigrants and descendants of African populations as its main sites of investigation. By means of snowball sampling, 20 female participants, between the ages of 24- and 68-years old, were recruited. In order to understand how expectations that are placed on the body, by the marketing of skin lightening products reflect and perpetuate racial, class, and gender-based social forces, observations in public spaces, followed by semi-structured interviews were conducted to address the following research questions: What are the motivations behind the use of skin lightening products, the effects and characteristics of using skin lightening products, and finally, the characteristics and influence the regulation of products have on the marketing and usage of products. Thematic analysis findings revealed the usage of skin lightening products, is mostly driven by colourism, dermatological issues, and celebrity and media marketing. Findings also indicate that using skin lightening products can have both beneficial and harmful effects, with the latter predominating and the former having severe health consequences. Lastly, the implementation of policies gave rise to covert marketing techniques and the expansion of an illicit market. While the study questions the implications of policies implemented to address the problem of skin lightening, it also raises questions about the effectiveness of policy implementation due to new concerns brought on by the illegal skin lightening marketing and covert marketing strategies.
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institution University of Cape Town (South Africa)
language English
eng
last_indexed 2026-07-01T04:02:22.609Z
license_str Not specified — see source repository
provenance_str_mv Harvested via OAI-PMH from UCTD — University of Cape Town Open Access Repository
publishDate 2026
publishDateRange 2026
publishDateSort 2026
publisher Department of Public Health and Family Medicine
publisherStr Department of Public Health and Family Medicine
record_format dspace
source_str UCTD — University of Cape Town Open Access Repository
spelling oai:open.uct.ac.za:11427/43340 Perceptions and experiences of skin lighteners in Cape Town Jacobs-Alfred, Meagan Colvin, Christopher Cooper, Sara skin lightening public health motivations effects policies media advertisements There are significant public health concerns related to the use and effects of skin lightening beauty products, the growth of which has been called a global epidemic. Research has demonstrated the sometimes-severe consequences associated with the use of skin lightening products, including poor self-esteem, permanent skin damage and even skin cancer. Many countries have regulations over skin lightening products, but it is challenging to properly manage the illicit market that nonetheless emerges. While most research has focused on the dermatological effects of skin lightening creams, little focus has been placed on the actual experiences of using skin lightening creams and the implications these have on public health. The goal of this study is to provide an account of the perspectives and experiences of service providers and skin lightening cream consumers in Cape Town. To gain insight into the daily consumption of skin lightening cosmetics, this study focused on beauty salons, African hairdressers, and stores belonging to the so-called "ethnic" trade associated with immigrants and descendants of African populations as its main sites of investigation. By means of snowball sampling, 20 female participants, between the ages of 24- and 68-years old, were recruited. In order to understand how expectations that are placed on the body, by the marketing of skin lightening products reflect and perpetuate racial, class, and gender-based social forces, observations in public spaces, followed by semi-structured interviews were conducted to address the following research questions: What are the motivations behind the use of skin lightening products, the effects and characteristics of using skin lightening products, and finally, the characteristics and influence the regulation of products have on the marketing and usage of products. Thematic analysis findings revealed the usage of skin lightening products, is mostly driven by colourism, dermatological issues, and celebrity and media marketing. Findings also indicate that using skin lightening products can have both beneficial and harmful effects, with the latter predominating and the former having severe health consequences. Lastly, the implementation of policies gave rise to covert marketing techniques and the expansion of an illicit market. While the study questions the implications of policies implemented to address the problem of skin lightening, it also raises questions about the effectiveness of policy implementation due to new concerns brought on by the illegal skin lightening marketing and covert marketing strategies. 2026-06-22T08:44:03Z 2026-06-22T08:44:03Z 2026 2026-06-22T08:27:25Z Thesis / Dissertation Doctoral PhD http://hdl.handle.net/11427/43340 en eng application/pdf Department of Public Health and Family Medicine Faculty of Health Sciences University of Cape Town
spellingShingle skin lightening
public health
motivations
effects
policies
media
advertisements
Jacobs-Alfred, Meagan
Perceptions and experiences of skin lighteners in Cape Town
thesis_degree_str Doctoral
title Perceptions and experiences of skin lighteners in Cape Town
title_full Perceptions and experiences of skin lighteners in Cape Town
title_fullStr Perceptions and experiences of skin lighteners in Cape Town
title_full_unstemmed Perceptions and experiences of skin lighteners in Cape Town
title_short Perceptions and experiences of skin lighteners in Cape Town
title_sort perceptions and experiences of skin lighteners in cape town
topic skin lightening
public health
motivations
effects
policies
media
advertisements
url http://hdl.handle.net/11427/43340
work_keys_str_mv AT jacobsalfredmeagan perceptionsandexperiencesofskinlightenersincapetown