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Africa-Lite: cultural appropriation and commodification of historic blackness in post-apartheid fabric and décor design

Thesis (PhD)--Stellenbosch University, 2019.

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Bibliographic Details
Main Author: Conradie, Annemi
Other Authors: Van Robbroeck, Lize
Format: Thesis
Language:en_ZA
Published: Stellenbosch : Stellenbosch University 2019
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access_status_str Open Access
author Conradie, Annemi
author2 Van Robbroeck, Lize
author_browse Conradie, Annemi
Van Robbroeck, Lize
author_facet Van Robbroeck, Lize
Conradie, Annemi
author_sort Conradie, Annemi
collection Thesis
dc_rights_str_mv Stellenbosch University
description Thesis (PhD)--Stellenbosch University, 2019.
format Thesis
id oai:scholar.sun.ac.za:10019.1/105943
institution Stellenbosch University (South Africa)
language en_ZA
last_indexed 2026-06-10T12:42:40.195Z
license_str Other — see source repository
provenance_str_mv Harvested via OAI-PMH from SUNScholar — Stellenbosch University Repository
publishDate 2019
publishDateRange 2019
publishDateSort 2019
publisher Stellenbosch : Stellenbosch University
publisherStr Stellenbosch : Stellenbosch University
record_format dspace
source_str SUNScholar — Stellenbosch University Repository
spelling oai:scholar.sun.ac.za:10019.1/105943 Africa-Lite: cultural appropriation and commodification of historic blackness in post-apartheid fabric and décor design Conradie, Annemi Van Robbroeck, Lize Stellenbosch University. Faculty of Arts and Social Sciences. Dept. of Visual Arts. Cultural appropriation -- South Africa Appropriation, Cultural -- South Africa Post-apartheid era -- South Africa Postapartheid era -- South Africa Decoration and ornament -- Design -- South Africa Fabrics -- Design -- South Africa Blacks -- South Africa -- Cultural property Commodification -- South Africa Indigenous peoples -- South Africa -- Cultural property Cultural property -- South Africa UCTD Thesis (PhD)--Stellenbosch University, 2019. ENGLISH ABSTRACT: Over the past few years, cultural appropriation has gained a degree of notoriety as a buzzword, after emerging into the wider public arena from academic, legal and political discourses. Internationally and in South Africa, debates arise predominantly around cases where historically asymmetric power relations are symbolically or materially re-enacted when dominant groups appropriate from economic or political minorities. This study examines the appropriation of colonial images of black individuals and bodies for commodification in twenty-first century South African décor and fabric design. A prominent trend in post-apartheid visual design, the re-purposing and commodification of archival photographs, and its circulation within local and global image economies and design markets demand further research and comprehensive theorising. I investigate the various aesthetic and discursive devices through which images of black bodies from South Africa’s pre-democratic past - including images of suffering, trauma and revolution - are assimilated for consumption and display within retail, leisure and domestic spheres. I use the notion of ‘subject appropriation’ to account for this form of appropriation, and to investigate the affiliation that indigenous groups claim with archival images in cases of objections to cultural appropriation, as well as where such groups deploy archival images for their own self-fashioning. In proposing a critical humanist and black existentialist approach to cultural appropriation, I suggest rethinking colonial representations as sites central to postcolonial ‘communities of practice’ in ongoing struggle for recognition, restitution and liberation. AFRIKAANSE OPSOMMING: Hierdie tesis ondersoek die toeëiening van koloniale uitbeeldings van swart individue en liggame vir kommodifisering deur kontemporêre Suid-Afrikaanse interieur- en tekstielontwerpers. Oor die afgelope paar jaar het toenemende publieke debat oor kulturele toeëiening aan die konsep berugtheid verleen, waar dit voorheen meestal in akademiese, geregtelike en politieke sfere bespreek is. In Suid-Afrika en internasionaal ontstaan hierdie debatte meestal waar histories ongelyke magsverhoudinge in simboliese of materiële wyse dupliseer word wanneer dominante groepe die kulturele eiendom van polities en ekonomiese minderheidsgroepe toeëien. ‘n Prominente tendens in post-apartheid visuele ontwerp - die heraanwending en kommodifisering van argivale fotos - en gevolglike sirkulasie daarvan in plaaslike en globale ontwerp- en kulturele markte, verg verdere navorsing en omvattende teoretisering. Ek ondersoek die verskeie estetiese en diskursiewe wyses waarop historiese beelde van swart mense uit Suid-Afrika se koloniale verlede – ook beelde van lyding, rewolusie en trauma – assimileer word vir verbruik en tentoonstelling in handels-, ontspannings- en huishoudelike omgewings. Ek gebruik die konsep ‘subjek toeëiening’ om hierdie tipe kulturele toeëiening te bestudeer. Die term word ook gebruik om die affiliasie te ondersoek wat inheemse groepe beweer te hê met argivale beelde, hetsy tydens debatte rondom toeëiening, of waar argivale beelde vir eie kulturele herskepping ontplooi word. Vanuit ‘n krities humanistiese en swart eksistensiële perspektief, stel ek ‘n teoretiese benadering voor wat koloniale uitbeeldings heroorweeg as platforms wat sentraal staan in postkoloniale praktyksgemeenskappe en hul voortgesette stryd vir erkenning, restitusie en vryheid. Doctoral 2019-02-11T09:38:51Z 2019-04-17T08:20:13Z 2019-02-11T09:38:51Z 2019-04-17T08:20:13Z 2019-04 Thesis http://hdl.handle.net/10019.1/105943 en_ZA Stellenbosch University ix, 308 pages : illustrations application/pdf Stellenbosch : Stellenbosch University
spellingShingle Cultural appropriation -- South Africa
Appropriation, Cultural -- South Africa
Post-apartheid era -- South Africa
Postapartheid era -- South Africa
Decoration and ornament -- Design -- South Africa
Fabrics -- Design -- South Africa
Blacks -- South Africa -- Cultural property
Commodification -- South Africa
Indigenous peoples -- South Africa -- Cultural property
Cultural property -- South Africa
UCTD
Conradie, Annemi
Africa-Lite: cultural appropriation and commodification of historic blackness in post-apartheid fabric and décor design
title Africa-Lite: cultural appropriation and commodification of historic blackness in post-apartheid fabric and décor design
title_full Africa-Lite: cultural appropriation and commodification of historic blackness in post-apartheid fabric and décor design
title_fullStr Africa-Lite: cultural appropriation and commodification of historic blackness in post-apartheid fabric and décor design
title_full_unstemmed Africa-Lite: cultural appropriation and commodification of historic blackness in post-apartheid fabric and décor design
title_short Africa-Lite: cultural appropriation and commodification of historic blackness in post-apartheid fabric and décor design
title_sort africa lite cultural appropriation and commodification of historic blackness in post apartheid fabric and decor design
topic Cultural appropriation -- South Africa
Appropriation, Cultural -- South Africa
Post-apartheid era -- South Africa
Postapartheid era -- South Africa
Decoration and ornament -- Design -- South Africa
Fabrics -- Design -- South Africa
Blacks -- South Africa -- Cultural property
Commodification -- South Africa
Indigenous peoples -- South Africa -- Cultural property
Cultural property -- South Africa
UCTD
url http://hdl.handle.net/10019.1/105943
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